What is Chinese hotpot and where does it come from? The questions that boiled over into a national controversy
什么是中國(guó)火鍋,它從何而來(lái)?這些問(wèn)題引發(fā)了一場(chǎng)全國(guó)性爭(zhēng)論

With different parts of China all laying claim to the title of hotpot’s hometown, we look back at the history of the dish in all its different varieties
中國(guó)不同地區(qū)都宣稱是火鍋的家鄉(xiāng),由此我們回顧了這道菜的歷史,了解了一下各種不同的火鍋。
The decision by a town in southeastern China to declare itself the home of hotpot prompted a backlash from other parts of the country, which all have their own views on the correct way to make the dish. It is little surprise that they reacted in the way they did. It is, after all, one of the most popular dishes in the nation of 1.4 billion people and comes in a huge variety of recipes ranging from the fiery to the fragrant.
中國(guó)東南部的一個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)宣稱自己是火鍋的發(fā)源地,這一決定引起了中國(guó)其他地區(qū)的強(qiáng)烈反對(duì),他們都對(duì)如何正確制作這道菜有自己的看法。他們激烈的反應(yīng)讓人毫不奇怪。畢竟它是這個(gè)國(guó)家14億人口最受歡迎的菜肴之一,而且從火辣到芳香有各種各樣的食譜特色。
Many of these regional variations have now spread across the world and can be found in restaurants from Nairobi to Buenos Aires. It is also big business. Hotpots account for 22 per cent of the dishes sold at restaurants across the country, according to a 2017 report from food industry giant Dianping-Meituan.
這些地區(qū)的許多特色火鍋現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)遍布世界各地,從內(nèi)羅畢到布宜諾斯艾利斯各地餐館里都能找到這道菜。這也是一項(xiàng)大生意。根據(jù)食品行業(yè)巨頭安平美團(tuán)2017年的一份報(bào)告,2017年全國(guó)各地的餐館里火鍋占了22%的市場(chǎng)份額。
 
He Qiao, a Chengdu chef, said the city was hot in the summer and cold in the winter. He believes that Sichuan peppercorns and chilis “can disperse both the humidity and cold inside our bodies, which helps keep the balance between yin and yang”.
成都廚師何橋說(shuō),這個(gè)城市夏天很熱冬天很冷。他認(rèn)為花椒和辣椒“可以分散我們體內(nèi)的濕度和寒冷,這有助于保持陰陽(yáng)平衡。
Unlike in Beijing, there is a much wider choice of ingredients for diners to chose from – basically, anything goes from congealed blood to cheese balls or live shrimp. Hotpot culture is strong in this part of the world. Chongqing residents often claim that one in five restaurants there is a hotpot place.
與北京不同,四川食客們食材的選擇范圍更廣——基本上,從凝結(jié)的血液到奶酪球或活蝦都在他們的菜單上。在這個(gè)地區(qū)有興旺的火鍋文化。重慶的居民經(jīng)常說(shuō)五分之一的餐館里都有火鍋。
Anhui ‘simple but delicious’
安徽火鍋“簡(jiǎn)單但美味”
Guangde in the southeastern province of Anhui kicked off the latest controversy by unilaterally declaring itself the hotpot hometown, However, this variety is less well known compared with Beijing and Sichuan’s versions and features a heavily flavoured broth with local, seasonable vegetables, which is often cooked in the home. “The simplest pot is pork stewed with radish. It’s simple, but incredibly delicious, especially in winter,” said Mian Lugui, a university student from Guangde.
中國(guó)東南部安徽省廣德市單方面宣布自己是火鍋的故鄉(xiāng),這引發(fā)了最近的爭(zhēng)議。然而,與北京和四川火鍋相比,這種火鍋的知名度并不高。而這里火鍋的特色是一種味道濃郁的肉湯,里面有當(dāng)?shù)氐臅r(shí)令蔬菜,通常是一道家常菜。 “最簡(jiǎn)單的火鍋是用蘿卜燉的豬肉。”這很簡(jiǎn)單但非常美味,冬天尤其如此?!眮?lái)自廣德大學(xué)的大學(xué)生Mian Lugui說(shuō)。
Yunnan favours the sour and Guangdong likes seafood
云南喜歡酸菜,廣東喜歡海鮮
The Beijing and Sichuan varieties may dominate China’s big cities, but an array of different recipes can be found throughout the country, reflecting the produce and culture of their home regions. Yunnan in the southwest often uses ham, Guizhou in the south is known for flavours such as its sour hotpot and its use of ingredients such as cow intestine.
北京和四川的火鍋品種可能在中國(guó)大城市中占據(jù)主導(dǎo)地位,但在全國(guó)各地都能找到各種不同的風(fēng)味,這也反映出它們家鄉(xiāng)的生產(chǎn)文化。西南地區(qū)的云南經(jīng)常使用火腿,而南方的貴州則以其酸辣火鍋和牛腸等食材聞名。
In Jiansgu on the east coast hotpots have a lighter flavour and are cooked with chrysanthemum. The southern province of Guangdong, home to Cantonese cuisine, is known for its fragrant soup base and its emphasis on seafood. “Because the climate in Guangdong is relatively hot, people do not eat chilli. So the local hotpot is not spicy and they use spring onion, ginger, peanut oil and soy sauce instead,” said Zhou Chao of Beijing Cooking School.
而東海岸江蘇省的火鍋味道更清淡,而且是用菊花做的。廣東是廣東菜的發(fā)源地,以其芳香的湯底和對(duì)海鮮的強(qiáng)調(diào)而聞名?!耙?yàn)閺V東的氣候比較熱,人們不吃辣椒。”所以當(dāng)?shù)氐幕疱伈焕?,他們用的是蔥、姜、花生油和醬油,”北京烹飪學(xué)校的周超說(shuō)。

“At first, it was popular in the cold north of China, and people used it to cook all kinds of meat. Further developments in cooking technology led to the development of more variations of hotpot.” But others believe that the dish as we know it today probably has its roots in the 14th century. Some accounts trace the roots of Beijing hotpot to the days of the Mongol empire around 800 years ago.
“一開(kāi)始,火鍋在中國(guó)寒冷的北方很受歡迎,人們用它來(lái)做各種各樣的肉?!迸腼兗夹g(shù)的進(jìn)一步發(fā)展導(dǎo)致了更多火鍋品種的誕生。但其他人認(rèn)為,我們今天所知的火鍋可能起源于14世紀(jì)。一些人則將北京火鍋的根源追溯至大約800年前的蒙古帝國(guó)時(shí)代。
A legend from that time tells of a emperor impatiently waiting for his lamb leg to cook as he prepared for battle. His ingenious chef decided to speed up the process by chopping up the meat and boiling it, thereby giving rise to a new dish. “In the Ming and Qing dynasties [from the late 14th century to early 20th century], some dignitaries liked hotpot very much, and they began to put different seasonings and ingredients into hotpots for the different flavours,” said Zhou from the Beijing Cooking School. “Now, we have a lot of different ways to cook the different dishes.”
那時(shí)傳說(shuō)一個(gè)皇帝在準(zhǔn)備戰(zhàn)斗時(shí)不耐煩地等著廚師用羊腿做飯。他的天才廚師決定加快這一過(guò)程,所以把肉切碎并煮沸從而產(chǎn)生一道新菜。來(lái)自北京烹飪學(xué)校的周說(shuō):“14世紀(jì)末到20世紀(jì)初的明清時(shí)期,一些政要非常喜歡火鍋,他們開(kāi)始把不同調(diào)味料和食材放入火鍋中以獲得不同的口味。”“現(xiàn)在我們則有很多不同的方法來(lái)烹飪不同的菜肴?!?/span>

aristide.saccard.15@****** So many hotpots but they all give diarrhea
這么多的火鍋吃了都會(huì)腹瀉。

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